While the medieval streets and monasteries of Prague’s spire-studded Old Town are a sight for sore eyes and indubitably must-visit places, a wander off the tourist track will turn up some interesting underground culture of a different nature. Head east to the grungy Zizkov neighborhood, recommends the New York Times, for a veritable local, often live music experience. Amidst hills topped with cobblestone lanes, lies the Bunkr Parukarka (parukarka.eu), a one-time nuclear bunker built in the mid-1950s on Parukarka hill. Nowadays, part of the space has been turned into a club. A long staircase descends to the shelter and each lead-lined bunker door weighs more than 10,000 pounds, according to the manager. Temporary photo exhibitions line the walls and live bands and D.J.s keep the music flowing.
For those interested in architecture, the area to the south of the old quarter, where Gothic and Baroque prevail, is home to some of the city’s most distinctive Cubist buildings. Take a look at the characteristic hexagonal forms of Villa Kovarovic on the Vltava riverbank, built in 1913 by Josef Chochol, and nearby buildings by Otakar Novotny and Emil Kralicek. Chochol’s 'triple house,' a complex of three Cubist buildings facing the river is also just a five-minute walk away. Although not open to the public, you can get an inside view of part, at least, of Chochol’s 1914 Hodek building (on the corner of Neklanova and Premyslova) and a drink too: the building is a rare Cubist apartment house, now with a pub on the ground floor.