Dubrovnik, Croatia: firmly back in business.

Almost twenty years on from the Serbian bombardment of Croatia's most famous citadel, Old Dubrovnik, this red-roofed Croatian gem, is back in business as an Adriatic tourist hub with a lot to offer. Visitors flock to the city in summer, making the whole atmosphere intensely touristy, but autumn is a great time to take a weekend break and catch the last of the sunshine.

Enjoy the myriad fountain-refreshed piazzas, the palaces and monasteries, impressive architecture and cafes and shops of the Old Town, mostly surrounded by the sea, and bound within one-and-a-quarter miles of ancient walls. There is plenty of European history, culture and good food to keep you busy for the weekend.

Visit the world-class Dubrovnik Museum of Modern Art (www.ugdubrovnik.hr), as recommended by the Daily Telegraph, where you can also enjoy magnificent views (much of the exhibition space is on outdoor terraces). Take a guided tour of the city walls, or have some peaceful moments on the island of Lokrum, a 15 minute ferry ride from the old harbor. Relax in the botanic gardens, by the lake or on one of its rocky beaches.

Back on terra firma, try the reasonably priced Dalmatian fish specialties at cliff-perched Vapor (www.hotel-bellevue.hr) or eat black squid-ink risotto in Old Town Proto (1 Siroka). Shop on Od Pudu, a narrow boutique-filled street, selling anything and everything, including religious icons and Byzantine jewellery. Try Hippy Garden (www.hippygarden.com) which specializes in items by Croatian designers.

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