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Cadiz for a jar at an ex-Bullfighter’s bar, a touch of Flamenco Puro and some Spanish Lovin’

First time I had a holiday in Spain I asked the barman for a kiss (it’s a language thing – when you go, you’ll know what I mean) began to smoke and fell in love.

This all happened in Cadiz, I’ve stopped asking barmen for kisses, still smoke and try to fall in love at least once a day – which isn’t too hard in Spain.

Anyway, enough about me – we’re here to talk about Cadiz, Spain which doesn’t usually draw the crowds, which is exactly the reason to go. It’s got a laid-back vibe, excellent seafood and atmospheric streets bathed in intense sunlight – and this is still right through October too.

And best of all are the Andalucians – they’re the ones that the rest of Spain is regularly pissed-off at. Basically, they’re the ones who don’t really work all that much, and when they do it’s done in a very relaxed manner – with mucho fag and café breaks between, throw the best parties and then get to live off the tax euros from the hard-working Northerners. Ha! That’s the Northern version of the story anyway – go down South for yourself and make up your own mind.

Nip into Bar Manteca (c/Corralón de los Carros, 66), run by a retired torero, for a nip of Rioja. Its walls are covered with bullfighting memorabilia and the tapas, like our chorizo iberico, arrive on greaseproof paper.

Then head for the Peña la Perla (c/Carlos Ollero, +956 259 101), one of several flamenco clubs offering a warm gaditano welcome. As you sip a fino you’ll be treated to deep, full-throated cante jondo style singing and electrifying dancing. The music will still be ringing in your ears as ye negotiate the dark, cobblestoned streets leading back to your hotel.

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